Frequently Asked Questions

Can I keep the rabbits outside?

No - all rabbits must be housed indoors at all times. Rabbits do not handle extreme temperatures or wet weather well. Heatstroke can kill a rabbit in 2 hours - even if they’re kept in the shade or a barn. While they can more easily withstand colder temperatures, they’re still at risk of hypothermia and frostbite.

There are also different types of bacteria or illnesses that can affect rabbits being kept outside, including flystrike. Flies love bunny poop and will attach themselves to the groin of a bunny and inject eggs under the skin, which hatch into larvae that become maggots. These will eat your bunny’s flesh from the inside, and unless you groom your bunny daily and thoroughly, you won't even realize until they’re dead. They can also easily pick up fleas, ticks, lice and cuterebras from being outside.

Lastly, rabbits who are housed outdoors generally get less attention than ones who are kept inside. This is particularly lonely for single rabbits. They require stimulation and attention and often crave human companionship. A life of isolation outside in a hutch isn’t fun for them.

How much space do I need?

The minimum space requirement is 4’x3’ for a single rabbit. We house all of our rabbits in xpens but if you have a dedicated room for them that’s bunny proofed, that’s even better! Please note we do not use cages for rabbits as they are far too small. Even with them being in an xpen, they still need to be given at least 4-6 hours a day out of their pen to run around. We can provide an xpen if you don’t have one.

How long does it take for a rabbit to get adopted?

It varies - it can take a few months or a few years. All rabbits have different personalities and needs, and sometimes it takes longer than expected for the right adopter to come along.

Can I foster temporarily or just for a few months?

Generally, no. There are times when we may need temporary housing for a rabbit but otherwise we ask that all fosters dedicate a minimum of 6 months to fostering. It’s stressful for rabbits to be bounced around between houses and we’d like to avoid that as much as possible. It’s also difficult for us as a rescue to have to move rabbits around as we often don’t have open spaces in foster homes and we don’t have a physical shelter. If one of our fosters suddenly can no longer house the rabbits, we’re put in a tough spot if we have no where for them to go.

Can I choose which rabbit I want to foster?

No. When applying to foster, you can state whether you’re able to foster one rabbit or a pair, but other than that we do not have a list of rabbits for fosters to choose from. That being said, we will only place a rabbit into a foster home if it’s a good fit. If we have a medically needy rabbit, we’d only pair them with a foster parent who’s comfortable giving medication. If one of our rabbits is shy and skittish, we wouldn’t place them in a noisy home with lots of kids.

What do rabbits eat?

A rabbit’s diet should mainly consist of fresh hay, greens, healthy pellets and occasional treats.

Hay: 80% of an adult rabbit’s diet should consist of timothy hay. Hay is important for digestion and to help wear down their teeth.

Fresh veggies: An appropriate amount of greens is one cup per 2lbs of body weight divided into two (or multiple) feedings a day.

Pellets: Pellets should make up less of a rabbit’s diet. Maximum 1/4 pellets per 6 lbs. body weight (depending on metabolism and/or proportionate to veggies). Recommended brands are Oxbow and Martins Little Friends. Avoid feeding pellets that contain seeds, nuts, dried fruit and colored bits.

Treats: Rabbits can have small pieces of fruit each day but it should make up less than 10% of their diet. Too much sugar can upset their tummies and cause weight gain.

What can I use for bedding?

We always recommend providing soft flooring for your buns. Bunnies don’t have pads on their paws like cats and dogs, so the only thing protecting their feet from hard surfaces is their fur. This makes it easy for them to develop sore hocks, which is when the bottom of their feet become red and inflamed. When they get sore hocks and the fur on their feet wears away, it’s almost possible to cure, which is why we need to work on preventing it from happening in the first place. There are a number of different options you can use for flooring (foam bath mats, interlocking foam mats, soft carpet), but we always recommend putting soft, fleecy blankets on top to keep them as comfy as can be! The addition of blankets also helps prevent them from chewing on the flooring as some bunnies love tearing apart foam. Even if the bottom surface isn’t soft and squishy, adding thick and soft blankets will definitely help!

Do they drink out of a water dish or water bottle?

We recommend using a sturdy water dish. It’s easy for bunnies to knock over water dishes when hopping around or playing so it’s best to have a heavier bowl with a flat bottom. Walmart sells some anti-slip bowls (should be in the dog section) but you can also check the pet section of Homesense or Winners!

We advise against water bottles as they do not provide adequate hydration and are not reliable.

What if they don’t want to eat anything?

There are a few different scenarios where this may happen:

a) If you just brought your foster bunny home and they’re still settling in, they may not be interested in food at first. This is the same for when after they’re spayed or neutered. If they haven’t eaten any pellets, hay or greens within the first 24 hours, reach out to your contact at Pumpkin’s Acres immediately. Even if it hasn’t hit the 24 hour mark and you’re concerned, please let us know.

b) If you’re introducing new greens and they aren’t interested, that’s okay! New foods should always be introduced gradually anyways to prevent tummy upset, so as long as they’re still eating their normal diet (pellets, greens and hay), there’s no reason to be concerned.

c) If none of the two above situations apply and your foster bunny simply is not interested in eating anything, please contact us immediately. If a bunny is unwell to the point where they don’t want to eat, it can easily turn into an emergency situation. That’s why it’s important to notify us as soon as possible so we can help with the next steps and arrange a veterinary appointment if necessary.

Can rabbits be litter trained? What type of litter do I use?

Rabbits can learn to use litter boxes and spaying and neutering helps with this greatly. Even when rabbits are litter trained, they may still leave the occasional dropping around to mark their territory. We recommend using Fresh 4 Life Eco-Paper Ultra Soft Cat Litter (around $18 a bag at Pet Valu) or Carefresh (can be bought at Pet Valu or Petsmart). Aspen pellets or wood stove pellets are also acceptable with wood stove being a cost friendly option.

Tip: Our favorite litter combination is wood stove pellets (specifically the Canawick brand found at Canadian Tire for $6.49 a bag) to thinly layer the bottom of the litter box (great for absorption and smell) and a thicker layer of soft paper litter on top to protect the rabbit’s feet.

AVOID: Cedar or pine shavings, corn corb litter or clay cat litter.

My rabbit started sneezing - is this normal?

It depends. Occasional sneezes are normal, especially if there’s dust in the air, which can happen if the room is being cleaned or the rabbit is exploring. But increased sneezing means the rabbit should be seen by a vet.

How do I make sure they don’t chew on any wires?

It’s important to bunny proof the area where the rabbit is going to stay and play. Wires should be kept off the ground and out of reach so they can’t chew on them. Shocks from electrical cords can be fatal to rabbits.

Can I let my foster rabbit play with my own pets?

Not without prior approval from the rescue. Rabbits can frighten very easily and some aren’t comfortable around cats and dogs.

I’m tight on space - can I foster a rabbit in the same room as other rabbits?

No. Foster rabbits must be kept in a separate room from resident rabbits to avoid injury and any possible transmission of disease or bacteria.

What kind of carrier should I use if I need to bring the foster rabbit to a vet?

Rabbits should always be transported in a solid carrier lined with a soft blanket or towel. For longer car rides, you can place some hay in the back of the carrier to keep them entertained. We also recommend covering the carrier with a light towel to help them feel less scared.